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  月饼:从“出圈”到归真

  月饼江湖,鏖战正酣。以市面上比较火爆的两款“医院月饼”为例,上海市精神卫生中心研制的月饼,已被炒到1288元一盒的天价。贵州省人民医院职工食堂研制的云腿月饼因为“味道实在是太好了”,老百姓排长队购买自不在话下,甚至市面上还出现了仿冒产品,逼得这款“网红月饼”最终用上了三维码防伪识别技术。

  今年,成都中医药大学以《黄帝内经》中“五色有五味,五行入五脏”的中医理论为制作理念,五味调和,烘焙出“金性为白入肺,牛奶椒盐五仁味;木性为青(绿)入肝,绿茶雪丝椰蓉味;水性为黑入肾,紫芋海盐芝士味;火性为红入心,樱花金沙奶黄味;土性为黄入脾,台式清香茉莉味”五色五味的月饼。

  “相比去年印上校徽的月饼,今年五色五味月饼订购量实现了翻番,现在我们的面包房已经停止接单了,做不过来。”成都中医药大学饮食服务中心主任助理朱文涛告诉记者,当前这款月饼仅供教职工、学生订购已是供不应求,明年学校计划让月饼“走出校门,走向市场”。

  面对今年如此火爆的“医院月饼”行情,朱文涛有自己的见解:“人们不仅是期望品尝一块月饼,更是一种对健康养生的追求,医学院校出品的月饼给人靠谱的感觉。”朱文涛说,现在大家普遍追求一种健康的生活方式,医院出品的月饼有营养科把关,注重食材的新鲜、无添加等特性,慢慢就做出了口碑,销量高也在情理之中。

  一年又一年,小小的一块月饼被赋予了层出不穷的创意。小龙虾、干贝、螺蛳粉……酥香的饼皮下可谓“包罗万象”,这是口味的创新;盲盒、抽屉、竹篮……精美的外观让观赏价值一再提升,这是包装的创新;私人定制、限量发售、独家货源……洞悉消费者的喜好,抓住年轻人猎奇的心理,这是销售模式的创新。万变不离其宗,越来越多的月饼正在回归初心,纯正的口感、健康的食材成为食客们选购月饼的评判标准。

  要说“玩”月饼,“饼二代”李洋很有发言权。小时候,李洋是父亲身后的“小尾巴”,跟着开办月饼厂的父亲学习制作、销售月饼。李洋现在的身份是云南嘉华食品有限公司的经销商,嘉华是云南烘焙行业的知名品牌。

  “刚刚进入这个行业时,我为了‘玩’月饼,没少和父亲吵架。”李洋是一名“90后”,10年前20出头的他刚入行时,觉得自家工厂里的月饼“很土气”。“首先,我改掉以红、黄为主的包装,加入暗黑风、七彩色。其次,方形、圆形这两种形状不用了,哪种模具新潮就做哪种形状。再次,当下流行吃什么,就把口感加进去。”

  然而,当自己亲手设计制作的月饼成批量推向市场时,却卖不动。李洋不好意思地笑了:“年轻不懂事,好像把月饼给‘玩’坏了。”李洋说,当自己真正“吃得懂”月饼时,已经30岁了。他花了整整10年时间与父亲一起做月饼、跑市场,渐渐明白了月饼在父亲心中承载的是老一辈人对传统文化的认知,对文化底蕴的认可。

  月饼是中秋节的文化符号,圆形或方形的外观代表着团圆和收获。不少人怀念“儿时的味道”,是因为传统月饼的口感蕴含着浓浓的节庆氛围,而中秋佳节正是亲朋好友重聚的日子,即使千山万水也难以阻挡游子们渴盼回家的心情。正因如此,月饼的价值不在于外包装的豪华精美,而在于我们怎样呵护、传承、弘扬月饼承载的中秋文化。

  梅贵洪是今年中国(四川)中秋食品博览会暨月饼文化节的展场负责人,这个展会已经举办21届了,谈及月饼销售市场的变化,他说:“10年前,展会现场可谓人山人海,五六百家企业把近2万平方米的展厅填得满满当当,销售额最高的一家企业日均可达100万元,盛况空前。客观地讲,随着网购兴起,线下销售的份额有逐年收窄的趋势,但逛展的回头客还是很多,有顾客说,‘只要你们办,我们就来’。”

  古往今来,传统节日里蕴含着丰富的食文化,不同的美食往往会被赋予一种特殊的文化价值、情感内涵和情感需求。如今展会上的回头客们除了对中秋文化有着深深的情结,还更加注重月饼的口感,因为不论是线上还是线下销售,只要质量过硬、品牌够响,产品就能成为消费者心中的“常青树”。

  艾媒数据中心发布的《2020年月饼数据消费报告》正好印证了李洋和梅贵洪的看法,2020年,接受调查的人群中,近85%的消费者表示会继续选购月饼,这一数据较2019年提升了11.2%。而口味和口感、节日氛围驱动、绿色健康成为大家选购月饼时最先考虑的因素。

  如今,月饼已经不再需要豪华包装撑“面子”,文化内涵成为月饼最有底气的“里子”。不难看出,不论是火到“出圈”的“医院月饼”,还是传统月饼,人们对健康饮食的追求,对竞博app官方下载包装的重视让月饼“返璞归真”,重回美味可口的实质和对美好佳节的情意寄托。

  “小饼如嚼月,中有酥与饴。”中秋了,带盒月饼回家与家人分享吧。(经济日报记者 刘 畅)

【编辑:卞立群】
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